During a real estate transaction you will most likely have your home inspected if you are selling. 
There are a few different ways sellers can approach the inspection process. 

1. Pre-Inspections can be done prior to listing your home. This will give you an idea of what could be flagged later on in the transaction and give you a chance to fix any issues before even listing the home. 
2. Most commonly, buyers will submit an offer on your home stating it is "contingent upon home inspection". This would mean an inspection would be completed on your home after an accepted offer, but before moving forward any further in the process. 
3. You could list your home for sale "as is". This option is usually sold for a fair cash price and could be well below the market value. This option really only makes sense in investment properties.

InsideOut offers Pre-Inspection certifications and they are a huge selling point for any listing. If you know you are entering into a hot market and want your home to move quickly, this option will absolutely help. When you hire InsideOut for a pre-inspection we will come out and preform and inspection just as we would if we were hired by the buyer. We will provide you with a very detailed report and make sure to flag and health and safety issues that could be a deal-breaker when selling your home. After issuing you the completed inspection report InsideOut will return to the residence to inspect that any issues that were flagged during our initial inspection were corrected. Once everything has been completed we will put a Certified Pre-Inspection sign in your front yard right next to your for sale sign. 

If your buyer chooses us for their home inspection they become our customer however, that does not mean that we are not on the same team. We compiled a list of 10 ways that you as the seller can help us and yourselves when entering into the inspection period on your home.  These common items are quick/easy fixes that can allow our time at your home to be as quick and efficient as possible. Taking these 10 steps will also allow provide less opportunity for items to be flagged in your inspection. Please find the printable 10 step form attached below! 

• loose mounting bolts. This condition is more often caused by age rather than installation, although improper installation will hasten the loosening process;
• attic pull-down ladders are cut too short. Stairs should reach the floor; 
• attic pull-down ladders are cut too long. This causes pressure at the folding hinge, which can cause breakage;
• improper or missing fasteners;
• compromised fire barrier when installed in the garage;
• attic ladder frame is not properly secured to the ceiling opening;
• closed ladder is covered with debris, such as blown insulation or roofing material shed during roof work. Inspectors can place a sheet on the floor beneath the ladder to catch whatever debris may fall onto the floor; and
• cracked steps. This defect is a problem with wooden ladders. 
• In sliding pull-down ladders, there is a potential for the ladder to slide down quickly without notice. Always pull the ladder down slowly and cautiously. 

 Relevant Codes
The 2009 edition of the International Building Code (IBC) and the 2006 edition of the International Residential Code (IRC) offer guidelines regarding attic access, although not specifically pull-down ladders. Still, the information might be of some interest to inspectors.

2009 IBC (Commercial Construction):
1209.2 Attic Spaces. An opening not less than 20 inches by 30 inches (559 mm by 762 mm) shall be provided to any attic area having a clear height of over 30 inches (762 mm). A 30-inch (762 mm) minimum clear headroom in the attic space shall be provided at or above the access opening.

2006 IRC (Residential Construction):
R807.1 Attic Access. Buildings with combustible ceiling or roof construction shall have an attic access opening to attic areas that exceed 30 square feet (2.8m squared) and have a vertical height of 30 inches (762 mm) or more. The rough-framed opening shall not be less than 22 inches by 30 inches, and shall be located in a hallway or readily accessible location. A 30-inch (762 mm) minimum unobstructed headroom in the attic space shall be provided at some point above the access opening.

Tips that inspectors can pass on to their clients:

• Do not allow children to enter the attic through an attic access. The lanyard attached to the attic stairs should be short enough that children cannot reach it. Parents can also lock the attic ladder so that a key or combination is required to access it.
• If possible, avoid carrying large loads into the attic. While properly installed stairways may safely support an adult man, they might fail if he is carrying, for instance, a bag full of bowling balls. Such trips can be split up to reduce the weight load.
• Replace an old, rickety wooden ladder with a new one. Newer aluminum models are often lightweight, sturdy and easy to install.

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In summary, attic pull-down ladders are prone to a number of defects, most of which are due to improper installation.

Figure 2:  Standard gutter styles found in building supply centers include the K and U styles. The difference is purely aesthetic.  (Image courtesy of the U.S. Dept. of Energy's Building America Solution Center.

Downspout Basics

Most downspouts are made of the same material as the gutter system, so they tend to suffer from similar problems, but with a few twists -- especially in the area of mechanical damage from proximity to high-traffic areas.
Downspouts should be inspected for:

• the connection between the downspout and the gutter;
• proper attachment of the downspout to the structure;
• leakage in joints (sometimes they will have been installed upside-down);
• impact damage from doors of vehicles parked nearby; and
• downspouts that terminate onto another roof surface.

Climate

The following are some climate-specific considerations for different types of gutter systems:

• Hot-Dry and Mixed-Dry Climates:  Gutters are not required in all dry climates. However, a wide roof overhang will keep occasional runoff away from the home.  As with any structure, the grade at the foundaiton should slope away from the building.  Metal, rather than vinyl, gutters and downspouts are safer in areas susceptible to wildfires. 
• Hot-Humid and Mixed-Humid Climates:  In areas with heavy rainfall, the gutter and rain leader capacity should be increased. Kickout and diverter flashing will prevent high water volume from spilling over the gutters and running down the exterior walls of the home. 
• Marine Climate:  In areas that experience high winds and heavy rains, the gutter and rain leader capacities should be increased, especially for large roofs. 
• Cold and Very Cold Climates:  Depending on the building codes for the jurisdiction, it may be wise to avoid the use of gutters in areas that receive high snow loads.  If gutters are installed, ice buildup inside the gutters during freezing and below-freezing temperatures can lead to ice damming, which can cause moisture intrusion through the roof's sheathing and any unsealed openings.  There are products available at building supply stores that will help prevent Ice Dams from forming.
  
  

Tips for Homeowners
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Inspectors can relay the following tips to their clients to help them properly and safely maintain their home's gutter system:

• Observe common-sense safety precautions (and enlist a spotter, if available) when using a ladder to reach the gutter system.  Always maintain three point contact and don't over-reach; move the ladder instead.
• If mounting the roof, wear footwear with gripping treads to prevent slipping.
• Wear gloves to protect hands and arms from sharp debris, as well as from animals and insects that may be hiding in the gutters. 
• A gutter scoop is a convenient tool for removing leaves and other debris. 
• Cleaning gutters can take a substanial amount of water. Place a garden hose in the gutters and downspouts to flush them out, making sure that the water is directed away from the home via the downspouts. This will help reduce the chances of saturating the soil around the foundation. 
• Covered gutter systems may be effective in preventing excessive debris buildup, but these are not maintenance-free.
• Homeowners can install a rainwater harvesting system (if allowed in their jurisdiction) that includes a drainage mechanism to handle overflow. 
  
  

If the home is surrounded by deciduous trees, they may shed their leaves onto the roof and into the gutters. So, home inspectors should impress upon their clients that regular gutter system maintenance is necessary to prevent moisture intrusion problems.  
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  The home inspector should also explain to his clients the importance of a properly functioning gutter system, and the potential problems that an undersized or damaged system can create.

This article was sourced from the U.S. Department of Energy and InterNACHI®.   

Homeowners may use a generator to supply electricity to their home in the case of a power outage, either out of necessity or convenience. Inspectors may want to know about generators and the potential hazards they present when improperly wired or utilized.   
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Generator Types
There are two main types of generators:  permanently installed, standby generators; and gasoline-powered, portable generators. 
 
Standby Generators 

Standby generators typically operate on natural gas or liquid propane. They remain fixed in place outside the home and are designed to supply on-site power to specified circuits through a home's electrical wiring. These generators work in tandem with a manual or automatic transfer switch, which automatically detects an interruption in grid-powered  electricity and ​subsequently transfers over electrical input to the generator.

Some advantages of standby generators are as follows:

• They may be turned on manually, or they may be programmed to switch on automatically in the case of a power outage even when no one is home.
• Power may be supplied for extended periods of time.
• Hard-wired systems, such as a home's furnace, well pump and air conditioner, may maintain continuous power.
• Uninterrupted power can be supplied to systems that must remain on continuously, such as medical equipment used for breathing, etc.

Disadvantages of standby generators are as follows:

• Installation may require a permit.
• A qualified technician, such as an electrician, is required to install the ATS and to determine the electrical load requirements for the circuits in a home.
• Routine maintenance is required.
• Standby generators may be prohibitively expensive.

Gasoline-powered, portable generators are typically smaller in size and power capacity than permanently installed generators. They are designed so that corded electrical devices may be plugged directly into them. 
 
Advantages to portable generators are as follows:

• Portable generators are versatile. They may be used at home or transported and utilized in remote locations, such as a campground or a construction site.
• They do not require complicated installation.
• They typically do not require permits.
• Portable units are generally less expensive than standby generators.   

Disadvantages of portable generators:

• Devices that are hard-wired into a home's electrical system cannot be powered by a portable generator if no transfer switch is installed.     

Hazards

• Portable and standby generators produce dangerous carbon monoxide (CO) gas, which can be deadly if inhaled.
• Inexperienced installers are exposed to the risk of electrical shock. Only qualified electricians should attempt to install a generator.
• Overloading a generator may result in reduced fuel efficiency, damage to appliances or fire.
• Standby generators or their required transfer switches that are incorrectly wired (or missing) may result in "back-feed" -- a hazardous condition in which an electrical current is fed back into the grid -- which could potentially electrocute and kill homeowners, utility workers, and others who are using the same utility transformer. 
• Connecting a portable generator directly into a home's wall outlet can also cause dangerous back-feed.
• Generators that are exposed to water or that are not properly grounded can cause electrocution.
• Gasoline for portable generators is highly flammable and may cause a fire when exposed to an open flame or when spilled on the hot generator.
• Over-taxed cords attached to a portable generator may cause a fire.

Carpet at Risk
Carpeting is an area of the home that can be at high risk for mold growth.  In order to grow, mold needs moisture, oxygen, a food source, and a surface to grow on.  Mold spores are commonly found naturally in the air.  If spores land on a wet or damp spot indoors that contains dust for them to feed on, mold growth will soon follow. Wall-to-wall carpeting, as well as area rugs, can provide an ample breeding ground for mold if conditions are right.  At especially high risk for mold growth are carpeting located below ground level in basements, carpet in commonly moist or damp climates, and carpet that has been wet for any period of time. 

Identifying Mold in Carpeting
Just because mold is not immediately apparent or visible on a carpet's surface does not mean that mold growth is not in progress.  In fact, mold will probably only be visible on the surface of carpets in unusually severe cases of growth, such as carpet damaged in flooding that has remained wet for some time. InsideOut Inspections can detect specific types of mold spores by using state of the art equipment to pull air samples from your home.  The following are some examples of identifiable instances where mold growth has occurred or is likely to occur:

• visible mold growth:  As stated above, this can be a rare case, but sometimes it may be obvious from visual inspection that mold growth is occurring.  Carpet in this condition is most likely not salvageable and should be disposed of and replaced.  Often, even if mold growth is not visible on the top of carpeting, it may be occurring underneath the carpet where it can't be easily seen.  Carpet suspected of containing mold should always be examined on both sides.
  
  
• carpet mildew:  Any discoloration or odor on carpeting that might be described as mildew is probably a case of mold.
  
  
• wet or water-damaged carpet:  Any carpet that has been subjected to water damage from flooding or standing water will most likely need to be disposed of.  Conditions are ripe for mold growth, in this case.  Even if visibly apparent mold growth has not yet begun, it is highly likely to happen unless the carpet is completely removed, cleaned and dried within 24 to 48 hours.  Even then, removal and cleaning are not guaranteed to prevent mold growth.  It is more likely that the carpet will need to be replaced.
  
  
• wet padding beneath carpet:  If padding beneath the carpet has become wet for any reason, or has become moist from condensation, the padding as well as the carpet on top are at risk for mold growth.  The padding may need to be replaced, as will the carpet, in some cases.
  
  
• basement carpet:  Carpeting in basements below grade level is especially at risk in areas where humidity is high, or where wide temperature swings can produce condensation.
  
  
• odors and stains:  There is a wide range of things that can cause odors and stains on carpets.  If mold is suspected, samples can be taken and sent for analysis to determine if mold growth has occurred.

Preventing Mold Growth in Carpeting
The best method for combating mold is to not allow mold growth in the first place.  The best way to do so is by ensuring that conditions conducive to growth do not exist.  Below are some ways to prevent mold growth in carpets.

• Reduce indoor humidity.  The use of dehumidifiers will help control moisture in the air, depriving mold spores of the water they need to grow into mold.  A range of 30% to 60% humidity is acceptable for interiors.
  
  
• Install intelligently.  Do not install carpeting in areas that are likely to be subject to frequent, high moisture.  Carpet in a bathroom, for example, will quickly turn to a breeding ground for mold growth due to the high humidity from constant water use in that area.
  
  
• Choose high-quality carpet padding.  Solid, rubber-slab carpet padding with anti-microbial properties is available.  It is slightly more expensive than other types of padding but can be helpful for preventing the growth of mold, especially in climates prone to periods of high humidity.
  
  
• Never allow standing water.  Carpet exposed to standing water will quickly be ruined.  If standing water ever occurs because of a leak or a spill, all carpeting exposed must be immediately cleaned and dried.  The top and bottom surfaces of the carpet, any padding, and the floor underneath must be cleaned and completely dried within a short period of time after exposure to standing water if the carpet is to be saved.  If a large flood has occurred, or if standing water has been present for any extended period of time, the carpet will probably need to be replaced.
  
  
• Clean smart.  When carpeting needs to be cleaned, try to use a dry form of cleaning, when possible.  If any water, liquid, or other moisture has come in contact with the carpet during cleaning, be sure it is dried thoroughly afterward.
  
  

Removing Mold From Carpet

Disadvantages of Carpets in Bathrooms
 
The pad beneath the carpet may soak up large amounts of moisture.  Some of the common ways that carpets may come into contact with moisture in bathrooms include:

• Steam from the shower will condense on the carpet.
• Water splashes from the tub or shower.
• Water sheds from shower/tub occupants as they step onto the carpet.
• Water splashes out of the sink.
• Water drips from the vanity.
• Water leaks from the toilet.

The presence of moisture in the pad will lead to the growth of decay fungi on the wood or oriented strand board (OSB) sub-floor. The sub-floor will be decayed and weakened by mold. Mold also releases spores that can cause respiratory ailments, especially for those with certain health problems. Inspectors can use moisture meters to determine if there is excess moisture beneath a carpet.
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 In addition to potential mold growth beneath the carpet, bacteria can accumulate in carpeting that surrounds the toilet. Bacteria are contained in urine, which can be accidentally deflected onto the carpet.
 
The following are recommendations that InterNACHI inspectors can pass on to clients who are experiencing urine- or moisture-related problems with their bathroom carpet:

• Clean the carpet regularly to remove any mold or urine that may be present.
• Keep the carpet as dry as possible. Various devices exist that prevent water from bypassing the shower curtain.
• Install a bathroom fan, if one is not installed already. If a fan is installed, operate it more often.
• Inspectors can inform their clients about why they are experiencing problems.

In summary, carpets installed in bathrooms can trap moisture and urine, substances that can cause structural damage and health problems.

Where does condensation typically form?

• plumbing drains. Condensation may collect on cast-iron or copper drain piping if a leaking plumbing fixture sends cold water through the building’s drain piping system;
• cold water pipes. In humid environments, condensation will quickly form on water pipes that distribute cold water;
• water pressure tanks. Especially in colder or more humid climates, water pressure tanks may experience condensation when water is flowing at a high and steady rate; ​
• plumbing fixtures that are in constant use or are defective and constantly refilling, especially toilets. Toilets commonly sweat in the summer due to high levels of humidity, unlike windows, which host condensate in the winter when the outside temperature is very low.

Metal that does not come into contact with cold water or air rarely exhibits excessive condensation, even though it’s exposed to the same moisture-laden air as everything else around it. A water pipe that carries only warm water, for instance, seldom cools below the dew point. And non-metal building materials that do come into contact with cold water or air (such as plastic drains and piping) often lack the thermal conductivity to become cold enough to be the source of condensation.
 
Metals also vary in their thermal conductivity.  Thus, they tend to cause water vapor to condense.  Inspectors can be aided by a rule of thumb that states that a metal’s ability to transfer heat (and, therefore, create condensation) is roughly equal to that metal’s electrical conductivity. Electricians and some inspectors may know that, of all metals, copper is the second-best conductor of heat and electricity, meaning that it’s more likely to respond to a brief burst of cool water or air than other metals, such as steel or lead. The metal with the greatest conductivity is silver, but it’s far too expensive to be used in ordinary construction.

Central Humidifier Dangers
Humidifiers can cause various diseases. The young, elderly and infirm may be particularly at risk to contamination from airborne pollutants, such as bacteria and fungi. These can grow in humidifiers and get into the air by way of the vapor where it can be breathed in. Some of the more common diseases and pathogens transmitted by humidifiers are:

• Legionnaires’ Disease. Health problems caused by this disease range from flu-like symptoms to serious infections. This problem is generally more prevalent with portable humidifiers because they draw standing water from a tank in which bacteria and fungi can grow;
• thermophilic actinomycetes. These bacteria thrive at temperatures of 113° to 140° F and can cause hypersensitivity pneumonitis, which is an inflammation of the lungs; and 
• “humidifier fever,” which is a mysterious and short-lived, flu-like illness marked by fever, headache, chills and malaise, but without prominent pulmonary symptoms. It normally subsides within 24 hours without residual effects.

Other problems associated with humidifiers include:

• accumulation of white dust from minerals in the water. These minerals may be released in the mist from the humidifier and settle as fine white dust that may be small enough to enter the lungs. The health effects of this dust depend on the types and amounts of dissolved minerals. It is unclear whether these minerals cause any serious health problems;
• moisture damage due to condensation. Condensed water from over-humidified air will appear on the interior surfaces of windows and other relatively cool surfaces. Excessive moisture on windows can damage windowpanes and walls, but a more serious issue is caused when moisture collects on the inner surfaces of exterior walls. Moisture there can ruin insulation and rot the wall, and cause peeling, cracking or blistering of the paint; and
• accumulation of mold. This organic substance grows readily in moist environments, such as a home moistened by an over-worked humidifier. Mold can be hazardous to people with compromised immune systems.