Purchasing a new construction home comes with a lot of advantages that are usually worth the higher price tag to a buyer. Unfortunately, there tends to be a misconception surrounding new construction homes and whether or not they need an inspection. While new construction homes do tend to have fewer issues than older homes, this does not guarantee that a home is without flaws or safety defects. Just like having a research paper peer-reviewed, there are always errors that come to light with a fresh set of eyes. 

One of the biggest issues in new construction homes is a contractor's use of sub-contractors. When hiring multiple outside contractors to work on different components of the home, some of the smaller items could be looked over, rushed, or forgotten all-together. ​For instance, all of the photos below were taken at an inspection of a new construction home. If a homeowner found all of these issues after moving into their new home and didn't obtain a home warranty, the repairs alone could cost upwards of $1,000. 

Some of these specific issues are small cosmetic mistakes that won't cause much damage however, left untreated the issues with the fascia and loose siding could lead to excess water damage over time and cause thousands of dollars in repairs.

If an builder does include a 3rd party quality inspection in the purchase price of your home, looking into additional ancillary inspections could also protect you and your investment in the long run. For instance, we inspected a new construction home recently and our client decided to add on a sewer scope inspection. At some point during the build of their new home, someone crushed their sewer line. Sewer line replacement can cost anywhere from $6,000-$12,000 and in most cases, is not covered under home warranties or common homeowners insurance policies. 

Radon is another Inspection that should still be purchased regardless of the age of a home. Radon is a Radioactive gas that comes up from the ground and can enter a house in many different ways. Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States and should be tested for in order to install a mitigation system if needed. Radon does not discriminate between new and old homes.
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This blog is in no way meant to tear down builders or their work however, it is meant to equip clients and their realtors with more information. 

Have you used, or been told to use RID-X for septic maintenance? 

Additives like RID-X or yeast can actually cause you more money and headache than not using anything. RID-X contains much stronger enzymes than the natural bacteria that is found in a healthy septic system. Breaking down solids at a much more rapid rate actually allows them to travel out to your drain field. This will lead to your drain field becoming clogged and potentially even needing to be replaced, and the average septic system replacement cost could set you back anywhere from $8,000 - $25,000!

How can you maintain a healthy septic system?

• Avoid adding harsh chemicals like bleach, antifreeze, and pesticides to your system that could destroy the natural bacteria
• Never flush inorganic materials like dental floss, feminine hygiene products, kitty litter, cigarette butts, or paper towels
• Tanks should be pumped, on average, every 3 years depending on the size of the tank and the home's water usage
• Get a septic inspection to ensure your system is working correctly and there are no clogs or broken pipes leading to your drain field

Be aware of everything you are putting down your sinks and NEVER treat your toilets or sinks like
a garbage can.

During a real estate transaction you will most likely have your home inspected if you are selling. 
There are a few different ways sellers can approach the inspection process. 

1. Pre-Inspections can be done prior to listing your home. This will give you an idea of what could be flagged later on in the transaction and give you a chance to fix any issues before even listing the home. 
2. Most commonly, buyers will submit an offer on your home stating it is "contingent upon home inspection". This would mean an inspection would be completed on your home after an accepted offer, but before moving forward any further in the process. 
3. You could list your home for sale "as is". This option is usually sold for a fair cash price and could be well below the market value. This option really only makes sense in investment properties.

InsideOut offers Pre-Inspection certifications and they are a huge selling point for any listing. If you know you are entering into a hot market and want your home to move quickly, this option will absolutely help. When you hire InsideOut for a pre-inspection we will come out and preform and inspection just as we would if we were hired by the buyer. We will provide you with a very detailed report and make sure to flag and health and safety issues that could be a deal-breaker when selling your home. After issuing you the completed inspection report InsideOut will return to the residence to inspect that any issues that were flagged during our initial inspection were corrected. Once everything has been completed we will put a Certified Pre-Inspection sign in your front yard right next to your for sale sign. 

If your buyer chooses us for their home inspection they become our customer however, that does not mean that we are not on the same team. We compiled a list of 10 ways that you as the seller can help us and yourselves when entering into the inspection period on your home.  These common items are quick/easy fixes that can allow our time at your home to be as quick and efficient as possible. Taking these 10 steps will also allow provide less opportunity for items to be flagged in your inspection. Please find the printable 10 step form attached below! 

• loose mounting bolts. This condition is more often caused by age rather than installation, although improper installation will hasten the loosening process;
• attic pull-down ladders are cut too short. Stairs should reach the floor; 
• attic pull-down ladders are cut too long. This causes pressure at the folding hinge, which can cause breakage;
• improper or missing fasteners;
• compromised fire barrier when installed in the garage;
• attic ladder frame is not properly secured to the ceiling opening;
• closed ladder is covered with debris, such as blown insulation or roofing material shed during roof work. Inspectors can place a sheet on the floor beneath the ladder to catch whatever debris may fall onto the floor; and
• cracked steps. This defect is a problem with wooden ladders. 
• In sliding pull-down ladders, there is a potential for the ladder to slide down quickly without notice. Always pull the ladder down slowly and cautiously. 

 Relevant Codes
The 2009 edition of the International Building Code (IBC) and the 2006 edition of the International Residential Code (IRC) offer guidelines regarding attic access, although not specifically pull-down ladders. Still, the information might be of some interest to inspectors.

2009 IBC (Commercial Construction):
1209.2 Attic Spaces. An opening not less than 20 inches by 30 inches (559 mm by 762 mm) shall be provided to any attic area having a clear height of over 30 inches (762 mm). A 30-inch (762 mm) minimum clear headroom in the attic space shall be provided at or above the access opening.

2006 IRC (Residential Construction):
R807.1 Attic Access. Buildings with combustible ceiling or roof construction shall have an attic access opening to attic areas that exceed 30 square feet (2.8m squared) and have a vertical height of 30 inches (762 mm) or more. The rough-framed opening shall not be less than 22 inches by 30 inches, and shall be located in a hallway or readily accessible location. A 30-inch (762 mm) minimum unobstructed headroom in the attic space shall be provided at some point above the access opening.

Tips that inspectors can pass on to their clients:

• Do not allow children to enter the attic through an attic access. The lanyard attached to the attic stairs should be short enough that children cannot reach it. Parents can also lock the attic ladder so that a key or combination is required to access it.
• If possible, avoid carrying large loads into the attic. While properly installed stairways may safely support an adult man, they might fail if he is carrying, for instance, a bag full of bowling balls. Such trips can be split up to reduce the weight load.
• Replace an old, rickety wooden ladder with a new one. Newer aluminum models are often lightweight, sturdy and easy to install.

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In summary, attic pull-down ladders are prone to a number of defects, most of which are due to improper installation.

• a backup power source. Power outages are most likely to happen during heavy rains and floods, which are situations when the sump pump is most needed. For this reason, combined with the nuisance-tripping from GFCIs, sump pumps should have a backup power source to rely on. A pump powered by a battery or the home’s water pressure can also be installed as a backup. Installation of a backup power source or backup pump is not a requirement, but can be offered to a client as a recommendation.
  
  
• that the pit that is large enough for the pump. The sump pit does not need to be constructed from any particular material, as long as it is solid and provides permanent support for the pump. It must, however, be large enough to allow the pump room to work properly. Some homeowners use a 5-gallon bucket as a sump pit, but this is insufficient. For most homes, the sump pit should not be less than 24 inches deep and 18 inches wide. One of the most common reasons why sump pumps fail is that the float gets jammed between the pump and the pit because the pit is too cramped.
  
  
• a cover. The sump pit should be covered to prevent water from evaporating into the home.

Discharge Location
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 Insideout inspectors are not required to check for a proper discharge location. They can note an improper discharge if they see it, but searching outdoors for the discharge is not recommended. The following is good general information that can be passed on to the homeowner:

• Water must be discharged at least 20 feet from the building.
• Water should not drain back into the house! Cycling water will place unnecessary strain on the pump and can weaken the structure’s foundation.
• Water should not drain onto a neighbor’s property without their approval.
• Many jurisdictions do not permit pumped water into public sewer systems.
• Pumped water should never drain into a residence’s septic system. Especially during heavy rain, a septic drainfield will become saturated and will struggle to handle the normal flow of water from the house. Additional water from the sump pump can damage the septic system. 

In summary, sump pumps are used to remove excess water from homes that would otherwise cause property damage. There are multiple types, but they all monitor water levels and ensure that they do not rise higher than predetermined levels. Proper maintenance and inspection will ensure pump efficiency and prolong their lifespan.

Figure 2:  Standard gutter styles found in building supply centers include the K and U styles. The difference is purely aesthetic.  (Image courtesy of the U.S. Dept. of Energy's Building America Solution Center.

Downspout Basics

Most downspouts are made of the same material as the gutter system, so they tend to suffer from similar problems, but with a few twists -- especially in the area of mechanical damage from proximity to high-traffic areas.
Downspouts should be inspected for:

• the connection between the downspout and the gutter;
• proper attachment of the downspout to the structure;
• leakage in joints (sometimes they will have been installed upside-down);
• impact damage from doors of vehicles parked nearby; and
• downspouts that terminate onto another roof surface.

Climate

The following are some climate-specific considerations for different types of gutter systems:

• Hot-Dry and Mixed-Dry Climates:  Gutters are not required in all dry climates. However, a wide roof overhang will keep occasional runoff away from the home.  As with any structure, the grade at the foundaiton should slope away from the building.  Metal, rather than vinyl, gutters and downspouts are safer in areas susceptible to wildfires. 
• Hot-Humid and Mixed-Humid Climates:  In areas with heavy rainfall, the gutter and rain leader capacity should be increased. Kickout and diverter flashing will prevent high water volume from spilling over the gutters and running down the exterior walls of the home. 
• Marine Climate:  In areas that experience high winds and heavy rains, the gutter and rain leader capacities should be increased, especially for large roofs. 
• Cold and Very Cold Climates:  Depending on the building codes for the jurisdiction, it may be wise to avoid the use of gutters in areas that receive high snow loads.  If gutters are installed, ice buildup inside the gutters during freezing and below-freezing temperatures can lead to ice damming, which can cause moisture intrusion through the roof's sheathing and any unsealed openings.  There are products available at building supply stores that will help prevent Ice Dams from forming.
  
  

Tips for Homeowners
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Inspectors can relay the following tips to their clients to help them properly and safely maintain their home's gutter system:

• Observe common-sense safety precautions (and enlist a spotter, if available) when using a ladder to reach the gutter system.  Always maintain three point contact and don't over-reach; move the ladder instead.
• If mounting the roof, wear footwear with gripping treads to prevent slipping.
• Wear gloves to protect hands and arms from sharp debris, as well as from animals and insects that may be hiding in the gutters. 
• A gutter scoop is a convenient tool for removing leaves and other debris. 
• Cleaning gutters can take a substanial amount of water. Place a garden hose in the gutters and downspouts to flush them out, making sure that the water is directed away from the home via the downspouts. This will help reduce the chances of saturating the soil around the foundation. 
• Covered gutter systems may be effective in preventing excessive debris buildup, but these are not maintenance-free.
• Homeowners can install a rainwater harvesting system (if allowed in their jurisdiction) that includes a drainage mechanism to handle overflow. 
  
  

If the home is surrounded by deciduous trees, they may shed their leaves onto the roof and into the gutters. So, home inspectors should impress upon their clients that regular gutter system maintenance is necessary to prevent moisture intrusion problems.  
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  The home inspector should also explain to his clients the importance of a properly functioning gutter system, and the potential problems that an undersized or damaged system can create.

This article was sourced from the U.S. Department of Energy and InterNACHI®.   

Homeowners may use a generator to supply electricity to their home in the case of a power outage, either out of necessity or convenience. Inspectors may want to know about generators and the potential hazards they present when improperly wired or utilized.   
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Generator Types
There are two main types of generators:  permanently installed, standby generators; and gasoline-powered, portable generators. 
 
Standby Generators 

Standby generators typically operate on natural gas or liquid propane. They remain fixed in place outside the home and are designed to supply on-site power to specified circuits through a home's electrical wiring. These generators work in tandem with a manual or automatic transfer switch, which automatically detects an interruption in grid-powered  electricity and ​subsequently transfers over electrical input to the generator.

Some advantages of standby generators are as follows:

• They may be turned on manually, or they may be programmed to switch on automatically in the case of a power outage even when no one is home.
• Power may be supplied for extended periods of time.
• Hard-wired systems, such as a home's furnace, well pump and air conditioner, may maintain continuous power.
• Uninterrupted power can be supplied to systems that must remain on continuously, such as medical equipment used for breathing, etc.

Disadvantages of standby generators are as follows:

• Installation may require a permit.
• A qualified technician, such as an electrician, is required to install the ATS and to determine the electrical load requirements for the circuits in a home.
• Routine maintenance is required.
• Standby generators may be prohibitively expensive.

Gasoline-powered, portable generators are typically smaller in size and power capacity than permanently installed generators. They are designed so that corded electrical devices may be plugged directly into them. 
 
Advantages to portable generators are as follows:

• Portable generators are versatile. They may be used at home or transported and utilized in remote locations, such as a campground or a construction site.
• They do not require complicated installation.
• They typically do not require permits.
• Portable units are generally less expensive than standby generators.   

Disadvantages of portable generators:

• Devices that are hard-wired into a home's electrical system cannot be powered by a portable generator if no transfer switch is installed.     

Hazards

• Portable and standby generators produce dangerous carbon monoxide (CO) gas, which can be deadly if inhaled.
• Inexperienced installers are exposed to the risk of electrical shock. Only qualified electricians should attempt to install a generator.
• Overloading a generator may result in reduced fuel efficiency, damage to appliances or fire.
• Standby generators or their required transfer switches that are incorrectly wired (or missing) may result in "back-feed" -- a hazardous condition in which an electrical current is fed back into the grid -- which could potentially electrocute and kill homeowners, utility workers, and others who are using the same utility transformer. 
• Connecting a portable generator directly into a home's wall outlet can also cause dangerous back-feed.
• Generators that are exposed to water or that are not properly grounded can cause electrocution.
• Gasoline for portable generators is highly flammable and may cause a fire when exposed to an open flame or when spilled on the hot generator.
• Over-taxed cords attached to a portable generator may cause a fire.

allowing its contents to spoil. There are a few procedures an electrical contractor can perform in order to reduce potential “nuisance tripping," such as:

• Check that the load power wire, panel neutral wire and load neutral wire are properly connected.
• Check wiring to ensure that there are no shared neutral connections.
• Check the junction box and fixture connections to ensure that the neutral conductor does not contact a grounded conductor.

Arc Faults vs. Ground Faults
 
It is important to distinguish AFCI devices from Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) devices. GFCIs detect ground faults, which occur when current leaks from a hot (ungrounded) conductor to a grounded object as a result of a short-circuit. This situation can be hazardous when a person unintentionally becomes the current’s path to the ground. GFCIs function by constantly monitoring the current flow between hot and neutral (grounding) conductors, and activate when they sense a difference of 5 milliamps or more. Thus, GFCIs are intended to prevent personal injury due to electric shock, while AFCIs prevent personal injury and property damage due to structure fires.
 
In summary, AFCIs are designed to detect small arcs of electricity before they have a chance to lead to a structure fire. ​