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Ceramic Tile and Stone Inspection

2/26/2018

Ceramic tile and stone are popular flooring materials, but each is subject to damage if not properly maintained.

Ceramic tile, due to its low required maintenance, ease of cleaning, and resistance to physical damage, is one of the most popular flooring materials available today. Made primarily from clay and other organic, as well as inorganic, materials, the tile is available in both glazed and unglazed finishes. Ceramic tiles are vulnerable to a number of defects, however, that can be inspected for the following issues:

Ceramic Tile

uneven tiles. Examine the tiles to see how level they are in relation to each other. Uneven tiles probably weren’t set correctly in the mortar, and reinstallation may be necessary;
cracks, loose tiles and splitting. Cracks in ceramic tile are the result of movement in the tile underlayment, excessive expansion or contraction of the building during freeze-thaw cycles, abuse, or improper installation. Minor cracks can be repaired with grout that matches the color of the tile, but larger cracks may require replacement of the tile;
crazing. If tiles were cooled too quickly after kiln-firing, they can develop fine surface cracks, most often appearing as a fine, web-like network akin to cracked ice. Crazing is much more common in older, historic tiles than in modern tiles, but it still happens today. Crazing increases the rate at which tiles hold dirt, leading to discoloration; and
cracked or discolored grout lines. Unsealed or improperly sealed grout will readily absorb moisture from the air or standing water, especially around showers and sinks. Some types of porous tiles may actually powder or spall if subjected to constant moisture. Damaged or discolored grout can be removed and replaced.

Natural stone tiles have a beauty that is difficult to recreate. They add an air of elegance and character to any home. Stone is more durable than ceramic tile, too, as it’s less likely to scratch, and holds up well under foot traffic. The unique and complex patterns can appear busy and overwhelming in large, empty rooms, however. Stone is also more difficult to maintain than ceramic tile. The following maintenance and repair tips are recommended:

Apply an impregnating sealant. An oliophobic sealant will repel both oil and water, and it’s especially helpful in the kitchen. Try to use a solvent-based sealant, as they’re generally better than water-based varieties.
Quickly clean up any acids. Some of the more common stone tiles are marble and limestone, which are calcite-based, meaning that they will corrode when exposed to acids, such as vinegar or lemon juice. Unfortunately, sealants cannot protect stone against these substances, which will etch into the stone if left standing. Igneous stones, such as basalt and granite, as well as ceramic tile, are less vulnerable to acid damage.
Lay walk-off mats or area rugs on either side of exterior entrances and instruct people to wipe their feet before they enter the home. The main cause of surface scratching on stone floors is dirt from outside that becomes caught under shoes and scraped across the floor. Scratching can dull the stone’s natural polish and damage its natural crystals, causing it to lose its shine and reflection.
Use a good-quality stone soap, preferably one containing linseed oil, for regular maintenance and cleaning. In most cases, you can simply mop the soap and leave it to dry.

In summary, ceramic and stone can be superb flooring materials, but water, acid, improper installation, and other adverse conditions may create defects.

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Condensation Inspections

2/19/2018

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Condensation, also called sweating, forms on building materials when the temperature drops below the dew point, which is the temperature at which droplets of water vapor are forced so closely together that they coalesce into liquid water. Because of their characteristic thermal conductivity, components made of metal are usually the first places where condensation will appear in a building.

Condensation can be a problem because droplets can pool and destroy building materials, such as when condensed water chronically drains from a toilet and weakens the bathroom tile floor and subfloor. Condensation can also pool and encourage the growth of mold, which is a serious health hazard. Dripping overhead pipes can be an extreme annoyance in a finished basement, as they may damage carpets, furniture and valuable electronics. Pooled condensation can even cause an electrical fire, or electrocute building occupants.

Where does condensation typically form?

plumbing drains. Condensation may collect on cast-iron or copper drain piping if a leaking plumbing fixture sends cold water through the building’s drain piping system;
cold water pipes. In humid environments, condensation will quickly form on water pipes that distribute cold water;
water pressure tanks. Especially in colder or more humid climates, water pressure tanks may experience condensation when water is flowing at a high and steady rate;
plumbing fixtures that are in constant use or are defective and constantly refilling, especially toilets. Toilets commonly sweat in the summer due to high levels of humidity, unlike windows, which host condensate in the winter when the outside temperature is very low.

Metal that does not come into contact with cold water or air rarely exhibits excessive condensation, even though it’s exposed to the same moisture-laden air as everything else around it. A water pipe that carries only warm water, for instance, seldom cools below the dew point. And non-metal building materials that do come into contact with cold water or air (such as plastic drains and piping) often lack the thermal conductivity to become cold enough to be the source of condensation.

Metals also vary in their thermal conductivity. Thus, they tend to cause water vapor to condense. Inspectors can be aided by a rule of thumb that states that a metal’s ability to transfer heat (and, therefore, create condensation) is roughly equal to that metal’s electrical conductivity. Electricians and some inspectors may know that, of all metals, copper is the second-best conductor of heat and electricity, meaning that it’s more likely to respond to a brief burst of cool water or air than other metals, such as steel or lead. The metal with the greatest conductivity is silver, but it’s far too expensive to be used in ordinary construction.

Condensation is more of a problem in older homes, which often lack a vapor barrier or sealers in the concrete. In this instance, moisture in the ground is forced through the foundation and masonry, which is why condensation is commonly found in the basements of older buildings. The two strategies used to reduce condensation are to lower the relative humidity of the air and to keep surfaces from becoming cold. These strategies can be practiced in the following ways:

Use a dehumidifier. This is a simple, effective appliance used to lower the humidity of the air, as it forces water vapor to condense into a water tank so it cannot condense elsewhere. An air conditioner can also dehumidify the air.
Remove plants from the home. This will decrease relative humidity, as their transpiration of moisture is a significant source of water vapor in homes.
Insulate cold surfaces. Insulation will keep surfaces from becoming cold, and it can easily be applied to water pipes and water pressure tanks. Fiberglass insulation should be avoided, as it’s ineffective when wet and it can be the source of mold growth. Plastic foam wrap is an adequate material for this purpose. Keep in mind that by adding thermal insulation to water pipes, they can no longer be counted on to supply radiant heat to their surroundings.
Ventilate the basement. However, this tactic might be counterproductive if the outside air is more humid than the indoor air.
Add heat where condensation is a particular problem.

Also, keep in mind that what appears to be condensation may actually be a water leak. If insulation and dehumidification don’t seem to improve the condensation problem -- especially if it’s appearing in only one place –- homeowners should contact a qualified plumber.

In summary, condensation will form on cold surfaces if certain precautions are not taken. If left unmitigated, it can lead to moisture-related problems that can affect structural components, as well as the occupants' health.

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Central Humidifiers: What, How & Why!

2/12/2018

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Humidifiers are devices that humidify air so that building occupants are comfortable. Central humidifiers are hard-wired into a house’s plumbing and forced-air heating systems.

What is humidity?
Humidity refers to the amount of moisture in the air. “Relative humidity” signifies the amount of moisture in the air relative to the maximum amount of water the air can contain before it becomes saturated. This maximum moisture count is related to air temperature in that the hotter the air is, the more moisture it can hold. For instance, if indoor air temperature drops, relative humidity will increase.

How do central air humidifiers work?
Central air humidifiers are integrated into the forced-air heating system so that they humidify air while it is being heated. The water that is used by the device is pumped automatically into the humidifier from household plumbing, unlike portable humidifiers, which require the user to periodically supply water to the device. Humidifiers are available in various designs, each of which turns liquid water into water vapor, which is then vented into the house at an adjustable rate.

Why humidify air?
Certain airborne pathogens, such as those that cause the flu, circulate easier in dry air than in moist air. Moist air also seems to soothe irritated, inflamed airways. For someone with a cold and thick nasal secretions, a humidifier can help thin out the secretions and make breathing easier.

Indoor air that is too dry can also cause the following problems:

damage to musical instruments, such as pianos, guitars and violins;
dry skin;
peeling wallpaper;
static electricity, which can damage sensitive electrical equipment, cause hair to stick up, and can be painful or annoying; and
cracks in wood furniture, floors, cabinets and paint.

Central Humidifier Dangers
Humidifiers can cause various diseases. The young, elderly and infirm may be particularly at risk to contamination from airborne pollutants, such as bacteria and fungi. These can grow in humidifiers and get into the air by way of the vapor where it can be breathed in. Some of the more common diseases and pathogens transmitted by humidifiers are:

Legionnaires’ Disease. Health problems caused by this disease range from flu-like symptoms to serious infections. This problem is generally more prevalent with portable humidifiers because they draw standing water from a tank in which bacteria and fungi can grow;
thermophilic actinomycetes. These bacteria thrive at temperatures of 113° to 140° F and can cause hypersensitivity pneumonitis, which is an inflammation of the lungs; and
“humidifier fever,” which is a mysterious and short-lived, flu-like illness marked by fever, headache, chills and malaise, but without prominent pulmonary symptoms. It normally subsides within 24 hours without residual effects.

Other problems associated with humidifiers include:

accumulation of white dust from minerals in the water. These minerals may be released in the mist from the humidifier and settle as fine white dust that may be small enough to enter the lungs. The health effects of this dust depend on the types and amounts of dissolved minerals. It is unclear whether these minerals cause any serious health problems;
moisture damage due to condensation. Condensed water from over-humidified air will appear on the interior surfaces of windows and other relatively cool surfaces. Excessive moisture on windows can damage windowpanes and walls, but a more serious issue is caused when moisture collects on the inner surfaces of exterior walls. Moisture there can ruin insulation and rot the wall, and cause peeling, cracking or blistering of the paint; and
accumulation of mold. This organic substance grows readily in moist environments, such as a home moistened by an over-worked humidifier. Mold can be hazardous to people with compromised immune systems.

Designs and Maintenance

drum-type humidifier: has a rotating spongy surface that absorbs water from a tray. Air from the central heating system blows through the sponge, vaporizing the absorbed water. The drum type requires care and maintenance because mold and impurities can collect in the water tray. According to some manufacturers' instructions, this tray should be rinsed annually, although it usually helps to clean it several times per heating season.

flow-through or “trickle” humidifier: a higher quality though more expensive unit than the drum-type, which allows fresh water to trickle into an aluminum panel. Air blows through the panel and forces the water to evaporate into the air stream. Excess water exits the panel into a drain tube. This design requires little maintenance because the draining water has a “self-cleaning” effect and, unlike the drum-type humidifier, there is no stagnant water.

Other tips that InterNACHI inspectors can pass on to their clients:

If equipped with a damper, it should be closed in the summer and opened in the winter. The damper may appear as a knob that can be set to “summer” or “winter” setting, or it may be a piece of metal that can be inserted to cover the duct opening.
The humidifier is controlled by a humidistat, which must be adjusted daily. Some new models do this automatically, although most require daily attention from building occupants. The humidistat should contain a chart that can be used to identify the proper setting based on the outdoor temperature. If this adjustment is not performed, condensation will likely collect on cool surfaces and potentially lead to mold or wood rot. Many homeowners do not know that this calibration is necessary.
The furnace might need to be checked for rust. Some humidifiers are installed inside the plenum of the furnace, which can be damaged by rust if the humidifier leaks.
Central humidifiers may have a solid core that should be replaced each year. The manufacturer’s instructions should be consulted regarding this replacement.

In summary, central humidifiers are used to humidify air to make it more comfortable, but they can cause health problems and building damage if they are not properly maintained.

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Chimney Inspections: Preventing Collapse!

2/5/2018

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Chimneys are among the heaviest and most structurally vulnerable of all exterior components of a building. Accidents caused by their collapse can lead to death. A collapse can also cause costly structural damage to the building and its surroundings. Inspection, maintenance and preparedness are critical safeguards against chimney collapse.

Wind and other elements may cause an already weakened chimney to collapse. An elderly man in Britain was crushed by a wind-toppled chimney as it fell from the roof of the managed-care facility where he lived. This case is, unfortunately, fairly unremarkable, as such accidents occur often for a variety of reasons -- from weathering and wind, to falling tree limbs and poor design.
Chimneys collapse by the hundreds during major earthquakes, typically snapping at the roofline. More than half of the homes in Washington State inspected by the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) following the Nisqually Earthquake in 2001 sustained chimney damage. Chimney collapses were widely reported following the massive-magnitude 7.1 earthquake that struck New Zealand in September 2010.

Chimneys should be inspected for the following defects:

Mortar between the bricks or stones that crumbles when poked with a screwdriver;
Missing or insufficient lateral support -- typically, steel straps -- used to tie the chimney to the structure at the roof and floor levels. Building codes in some seismically active regions require internal and external bracing of chimneys to the structure;
Mechanical damage to the chimney, such as that caused by falling tree limbs or scaffolding;
Visible tilting or separation from the building. Any gap should be frequently measured to monitor whether it is increasing; and
Chimney footing defects, including the following:
- undersized footing, which is footing cast so thin that it breaks, or does not sufficiently extend past the chimney’s base to support its weight;
- deteriorated footing, caused by weathering, frost, loose or poor-quality construction; and
- poor soil below footing, including eroded, settled or otherwise weakened soil, frost heaves or expansive clay beneath the footing.

The following additional precautions may be taken:

Attach plywood panels to the roof or above the ceiling joists to act as a barrier between falling masonry and the roof.
Strengthen the existing chimney by repairing weak areas.
Tear down the chimney and replace it with a flue or a stronger chimney. Keep in mind that tall, slender, masonry chimneys are most vulnerable to earthquakes, weathering, and other forms of wear. However, even newer, reinforced or metal flue chimneys can sustain significant damage and require repair.
Relocate children’s play areas, patios and parking areas away from a damaged chimney.
Instruct family members to get away from chimneys during earthquakes.

Homeowners should contact their local building departments to obtain required permits before starting any significant construction that may affect the chimney structure and/or its supports.

In addition to collapse hazards, leaning chimneys can also make using the fireplace dangerous. Hearth cracks, side cracks in the fireplace, openings around the fireplace, and chimney damage all present the risk that sparks or smoke will enter the living space or building cavities. Check for evidence of fireplace movement.

Commercial chimney collapses are rare, but they deserve mention due to the devastation they cause. In one terrible incident in central India, more than 100 workers were killed when a 900-foot (275-meter) tall chimney collapsed on a construction site. One of the worst construction site disasters in recent history, the collapse was blamed on heavy rain. While safety standards are generally more stringent outside of India, commercial chimneys everywhere require inspection.

In summary, chimneys should be inspected to prevent deadly, expensive collapses.

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Ceramic Tile and Stone Inspection

Condensation Inspections

Central Humidifiers: What, How & Why!

Chimney Inspections: Preventing Collapse!

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Ceramic Tile and Stone Inspection

Condensation Inspections

Central Humidifiers: What, How & Why!

Chimney Inspections: Preventing Collapse!

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